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This kitchen pays exquisite attention to the deceptively simple kebab: Meat quality, seasoning balance and time spent on the grill show disciplined precision. Saffron-kissed marinated whole game hen comes out moist and crisp. Koobideh, a sausage-shaped length of onion and garlic-infused ground beef, bests the greatest hot dog while the lightly marinated boneless chicken or salmon wrapped in swaths of sangak make celestial Persian sliders.









